4-Wheeling in Iceland

Growing up rural Oklahoma and Texas one might assume it’s a natural progression to go from a stroller to a tricycle to the seat of a 4-wheeler, dirt bike…or horse. However, contrary to popular belief that’s not always the case. Bryan and I are citified country folk. We love our Oklahoman and Texan roots. We love the idea of riding horseback into the sunset, 4-wheeling through the muddy countryside and camping out under the stars. Do we participate in any of said activities on a regular basis? Not so much.

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In fact, our first experience on any kind of 4-wheeler was on our trip to Iceland last October. Iceland was all about experiencing “firsts.” Our first time to snorkel, our first time to snowmobile, our first time to go to an emergency room on vacation. You get the idea. In many ways, these firsts are probably the reasons why Iceland stands out as our favorite trip to date. It was also the first time these “country” kids hit the open roads on a 4-wheeler. There truly could not have been a more exhilarating place to do so.

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The 4-wheeler ATV tour we went on operates out of Grindavik, just down the road from the Blue Lagoon. After signing a release, you suit-up and hop on a 4-wheeler (with a buddy or on your own) and take off into the rugged terrain.

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Keeping to my slow and steady ways, I held up the caboose of the convoy. As others on the tour whizzed by; rocks and dirt spattering all about, I tinkered along at the pace of a busted golf cart. But hey, to each his own. The slower you go the more you see–right? Around every corner in Iceland a little bit of magic awaits. This experience was no exception. Over bumpy lava rocks, up treacherous inclines and through narrow passageways we found ourselves once again rewarded with the exceptional beauty that is Iceland.

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It’s hard to imagine being blown away so many times in the span of only a week. But it happened. In Iceland, it’s possible.

Skal! -J

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Pull My Finger

By now I am certain that at some point in your life, your gross uncle or someone has said the words “Pull my Finger” to you.  Has anyone ever asked you to go inside a damp and dark crypt and rub the finger of a mummy that is presumed to be 650 years old?  Well…this adventure can be yours to for the low, low price of $17 dollars at the St Michan’s Church in Dublin, Ireland.

To bore you with a quick history lesson the church was built in 1685 and unknowingly built upon a naturally occurring methane reserve. The methane reserve has been seeping through the ground for hundreds upon hundreds of years and has preserved the bodies that have found this church to be their everlasting resting place. Upon paying your entrance fee, a very lively and spirited Irish man will take you deep beneath the church and show you this amazing piece of history between his many smoke breaks. Don’t be scared…most of us have seen too many horror shows. I promise he will not bat you over the head and lock the gate behind you which I was certain that he was going to do numerous times.IMG_3028

As you walk through the crypts you will come upon the final resting place of four exposed tombs, of which the fourth exposed body is presumed to be a knight who fought in the crusades. Legend has it that when a crusader was buried his legs and arms were crossed forever marking them as a crusader.DSC02294

This particular tomb still has his legs crossed and because of poor care for hundreds of years now has his right arm exposed.  The legend goes on to say rubbing his exposed finger will bring you eternal luck. Maybe it was because the tour guide liked us, or maybe because at that time we were the only ones on the tour, he unlocked the gate guarding these tombs and looked me right in the eye and said, “hurry.” Shocked by his statement I first thought, this is where he is going to kill me, but after quick assurance I realized that he was going to allow me to touch the finger of the mummy! With my heart pounding I walked into the dark crypt and began to reach down to touch the exposed finger all the while knowing that this mummy was of course going to wake up and grab me and eat me. Let me remind you I have seen way too many horror stories! As I touched the finger it was exhilarating to know that I was touching a body that was not only a crusader but also over 650 years old.DSC02293

The best thing that I can describe the feeling against, is rubbing your finger down a candle. The exposed finger felt very waxy and dry. It all happened so quick I was back behind the gate in seconds, but I carry the luck with me forever! Has anyone else had the privilege? Please share you dead finger touching story, and should that be the standard part of the tour, please keep that to yourself and allow me to think that I got to do something that very few do!

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 Slainte!

Bryan

First Rule of Hunting for the Northern Lights…

Make sure you know how to use your camera.

Visiting Iceland was like taking off to a faraway alien planet. One minute you’re in a lava field with nothing in sight for miles. The sun sets and there’s no sound, no wind and only the light of the night sky. It’s pretty easy to convince yourself you may have somehow been transported to Mars.

Lava fields in Reykjanesbar, Iceland

Lava fields in Reykjanesbar, Iceland

The next day you could be staring into oblivion at the top of a glacier or chasing rainbows into stunning waterfalls. The stark changes in landscape truly make it like nowhere else on earth (nowhere we’ve been, anyway). Combine all of this with the opportunity to see what should be considered one of the great wonders of the world–the Northern Lights (aka Aurora Borealis).

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

Sure you can see the lights in places like Alaska, Canada and sometimes even in the Northern U.S. However, trust me when I tell you, there is nothing quite like seeing them in Iceland. Your senses are already on high alert because of all of the scenic beauty, so to witness something so peculiar in such a unique place is pretty spectacular.

We were in Iceland this past October, which we later learned is not the most ideal time to witness the lights. Remaining hopeful and determined to see something, we booked a Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik city center. It is possible to see the lights from within the city sometimes but the further out in the country, the better your chances.

The first stop on our Northern Lights tour was Thingvellir National Park, about 45 minutes or so from Reykjavik. The tour guide was going on a lead from another tour operator that the lights were dancing out that way. Our noses were pushed to the glass, our necks craned to see out the bus window, anxious for the opportunity to hop out and see the glorious lights for ourselves. We poured out of the bus and waited…and waited…and waited some more. True to the saying, “good things come to those who wait,” after about an hour of staring into darkness, we started to see a faint glow. Kryptonite green slowly spread across the sky. It started as a long skinny strand and built into a massive tidal wave of color. It was like watching the ocean tide slowly build then sweep away. Oohs and aahs swept over the tour group as everyone scrambled to take photos and find the perfect camera setting. A few minutes would pass and the lights would dance away. A hush came over the group as we all waited in anticipation. “Over there, look!” someone from the tour group cried. The lights had come back tenfold like a green-tailed comet trailing through the sky. A flurry of photo taking commenced. iPhones, video cameras, regular cameras–we had every memory apparatus conceivable snapping away.

Only one problem, we hadn’t bothered to adjust the settings or shutter speed on any of them. Oops. After a good hour and a half of non-stop photos, we went back to the bus and quickly settled in take a look at what we captured. Unfortunately, our excitement quickly waned when we saw this…

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What we captured on-camera didn’t even compare to what we had just witnessed in person. Yeah, you can still kinda-sorta tell what it’s supposed to be but let’s face it, it’s no mantle photo, that’s for sure. The important thing is we did get to see them in person and we’ll always have the memory of a truly one-of-a-kind experience. And, we learned an important lesson; know your camera settings inside and out. To see what your Aurora Borealis photos should look like, check out our friends Where’s My Passport’s guide to photographing the Northern Lights on TinyIceland. Their photos and others featured on TinyIceland admittedly make us weep a little for what could have been. *Sigh.* It just means we’ll have to go back and hunt for more, which is fine by us.

Skal!

J

Guinness for Breakfast, Why Not?

Our trip to Ireland brought about many things for me; a greater appreciation for my Irish heritage; a rekindled love for U2 and what it means to drink a properly poured Guinness. Although we only had four days in the Emerald Isle, I feel like we got a good taste of Ireland. Of course with any short trip, it’s a taste that has left me wanting more.

Wall of Fame Temple Bar

Wall of Fame Temple Bar

We had the best of intentions to see everything on our well-calculated itinerary (and for the most part we did) however, low and behold around every corner in Dublin the black stuff was calling our name. Seriously, you haven’t tasted, I mean truly tasted Guinness until you’ve had it in Ireland. It’s like a completely different drink. It’s crisper, cleaner, smoother—it’s just better. It starts with the slow patient pour behind the bar and ends with the light delicious goodness sliding down the hatch. Yes, light. I would have never described Guinness as “light” until I had it in Ireland. Sipping on a fresh Guinness at the top of the Sky Bar at the Guinness Factory gazing upon Dublin was a pretty cool moment (more on that later).

Sky Bar at Guinness Factory

Sky Bar at Guinness Factory

We seem to treat every trip as a no holds barred calorie extravaganza. You would think we hadn’t eaten in weeks when we go on these little jaunts. Excessive maybe, but hey, you have to sample a little bit of everything, right? Highlights of our 6-Pack Taste of Dublin Tour included: a traditional Irish breakfast at Slattery’s Pub; tarts, scones and coffee at Queen of Hearts, Irish Stew at ­­­Auld Dubliner, Guinness Stew at the Guinness Factory, brown bread, brown bread and more brown bread. What can I say, we like carbs. Thank God for post-vacation work pants (slightly outdated GAP slacks with just the right give–perfect for post-trip bloat). I’ve often heard people say the food in Ireland isn’t good. I actually loved it– simple and hardy.

Breakfast at Slattery's Pub

Breakfast at Slattery’s Pub

Queen of Tarts

Queen of Tarts

While we spent the majority of our time in Dublin, we did sneak away to Howth and Malahide (two small towns within an hour of Dublin). Both towns offer a peek at life outside of Dublin and quite frankly, we always enjoy getting out of the city. Howth and Malahide are both seaside towns and only a 30-40 minute train ride from Dublin. It’s a great way to see more than one town if you don’t have a lot of time. There are tours offered to both cities from Dublin but the train ride is much cheaper and both villages are very walkable (in our opinion that’s the best way to go).

Howth, Ireland at sunset

Howth, Ireland at sunset

We became absolutely spoiled by Mother Nature on our recent trip to Iceland and were left craving more outdoor beauty. A day trip aboard Paddy Wagon Tours to the Cliffs of Moher did the trick. Not only did we get to set foot upon one of the most gorgeous natural wonders of the world; it’s also a landmark featured in one of my favorite movies of all time–The Princess Bride!

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher

With every trip I am more amazed by the beauty in this world. And with every opportunity to travel, I am more grateful for being fortunate enough to do so. It truly is a gift that shouldn’t be taken for granted. There’s so much more from our Irish escapade to share but in the mean time….Slainte!

-J

Baby Cliffs -along Atlantic Coast of Ireland

Baby Cliffs -along Atlantic Coast of Ireland

Travel Outtakes: The Hostel

You can plan and plan, and plan some more but no trip is perfect. We’ve all had travel hiccups. Some are pretty simple and forgettable, others leave you sleeping in a bathtub in Munich. These are the stories that should have stayed on the cutting room floor…

Travel Outtakes: The Hostel 

Nearly every seasoned traveler has stayed in a hostel at some point in their journey. Be it convenience or budget, sometimes a hostel is a great option. Sometimes…it’s not. Over the  years the 6-pack crew have shared many a hotel room together. It keeps costs down and usually we’re so tired after a day of sightseeing, we’d pretty much pass out on a bail of hay if the price was right. We’re not boushie travelers. However, if something ever seems too good to be true, life lesson learned, it usually is. Several years ago we had what could only be described as a 22-hour bender in Amsterdam. Truly, it was the closest we’ve ever come to living out a scene from The Hangover. It was so much fun. Knowing we’d only need a place to crash for a few hours before we caught a train to our next destination, we decided a hostel would do, and one room with two double beds would suit us just fine. We settled on the Hotel Sphinx for $88 a night. The reviews were decent and the room came with a private bath. Done and done.

DSCF0657Worn out and experiencing a full on case of the travel dizzies, we arrived to the Sphinx ready to crash. Upon checking-in we learned that the hostel was completely full; it was a good thing we booked weeks in advance. Keys handed over we were on our way to shut-eye. Up a narrow flight of stairs we trudged and wearily opened the door to find this…

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One tiny full-sized bed. Three grown adults. If you’ve ever seen the movie Planes Trains and Automobiles, the scene with John Candy and Steve Martin sharing the hotel room played out in my mind. This was not going to be good. To add insult to injury, this was also the day poor Shades made a rookie travel mistake and wore a brand new pair of Converse for the first time. The result–bloody feet and a stinky, stinky mess. We made the best of the situation as good travelers do and somehow managed to  maneuver ourselves into semi-sitting, half-sleeping positions and kinda sorta dozed off. Shades put it best when he described it as the equivalent of “sharing the hood of a car.” That’s pretty much exactly what it was like. The good news, for the price, the hostel was adequate, clean and had a friendly staff. Had the hostel not been booked to the gills, we could have easily switched rooms. But as luck would have it we were destined to have a John Hughes moment and a story to share.

Cheers!

-Jessica